Date (Race Start): Friday, 3 November 18:00
Venue: Höganäs - Bâstad (Sweden)
Parcours: 161 km including 2586 meters of ascent
Maximum allowed Race time: 32 hours
Did Not Finish (DNF) Rate: between 40-60%
My Result: 10th Place overall – 1st place in M40 in 18 hours 22 minutes
Heaven, Sea, and Hell. The pure Scandinavian Trail Adventure… or The University of Suffering…
The Kullamannen race is known to be relatively flat but incredibly challenging with a crazy reputation and history.
Kullamannen itself stands for an ancient Swedish legend. It dates to the year 999. No one seems to know the answer to who Kullamannen was, but there are strong powers always present in the Swedish Mountain area around the mythical Kullaberg, the birthplace of the powerful legend of Kullamannen. According to locals, many remarkable things have occurred on this mountain.
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The Race Start - a dark night with a masked knight
The start was on Friday, 18h00. We were 624 runners from various countries who gathered at the start line. I arrived around 15 minutes before the start and found a good place right behind the first row of approximately 10 Elite runners. The sky was completely dark due to the early sunset in Sweden. Around us, there were several hundred spectators. All of them were asked to activate the flashlight of their phone to put it towards the sky.
Then, a masked knight appeared. C’est du jamais vu! Glad to be here in this moment. What a unique moment and a special atmosphere.
Now, it’s just a minute to go. It’s the calm before the storm. I’m happy and excited to run this race which represents one of my A races of the year including a specific preparation.
Breathe in, breathe out… 10 seconds to go….Peng! The masked knight kicks off the race, followed by the leading runners before sending them on their way.
The first 12k - the runnable part at the sea
I start running with the 20 – 30 leading runners. It’s always tempting to start with the best runners and start fast, at the same time it’s important to control the pace to avoid overpacing. Otherwise, you will be toast early in the race. Thus, the purpose is to run fast but controlled in the beginning o the race. The first Km was done with a pace of 4min13 seconds. Then, we get to the coastline. It’s super dark but beautiful to run just next to the sea. We can hear the wind, feel the breeze of the ocean and are blessed to run in a clear night sky. It’s nice to run like this. I start decreasing the pace to 4min30 per km. It feels good. I’m running with four other athletes. We say hello to each other and carry on running.
Mölle at Km 12.7 - Take 1
I arrive in Mölle, for the first time today. This is the city we will cross three times today! It includes an aid station with food and beverages. However, when you reach Mölle for the first time at KM 12.7, it’s just to do a turn direction Josefinelust. After having passed Mölle, we run 1 km on the road and then follow a rough and wet coastal path. It’s a very slippery terrain. As I’m not the best technical trail runner, the few other athletes who were running with me on the flat part pass by. I need to focus on the path, be concentrated not to fall, and then climb the first hill. Happy about this first little success. The first big challenge lies behind us and now we approach the steep hill in the forest area. I like this part and start running uphill. Slowly but surely… The goal is to do slow uphill running (and not hiking) as practiced in the training to avoid losing too much time while keeping the energy levels low.
From Km 18.8 – Aid Station Josefinelust to Mölle
I arrive at the Aid station. Happy about this as it’s one of the first intermediate goals to be achieved. When you do an ultra race, it’s important to set intermediate goals, i.e. each aid station is key and seen as a small milestone. Now, it’s time to refill the flasks with water and then carry on. No break!
The area around Josefinelust is a crucial and difficult area to run. It’s the first of three loops in this area. There are multiple uphills and downhills on a technical terrain. The path is muddy and wet but still runnable. The purpose was to keep the energy levels low and to run at a pace of approximately 7 minutes per km. The terrain is very technical, thus more focus and concentration are required.
We reach Kullaberg. It’s the mythical mountain and the birthplace of the powerful legend of Kullamannen. It’s all dark, the only thing I see with my headlamp is the trail in front of me and naked trees. Some of those trees look very strange. Suddenly I’m like whoo what’s this… it feels like a tree was moving like a monster. Is it Kullamannen or the strange powers we have heard coming from this mountain or just a hallucination? Either way, I acknowledge the situation, put the focus back on the trail, and enjoy the privilege of running in a nice natural area. It’s going well.
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Mölle Aid Station at Km 32,9 - Take 2
Cool, we are back in Mölle! It’s time to refill the bottles and eat a hot potato. To my surprise, there was no food at all. I’m a bit confused and disappointed. However, there’s nothing I can change, and thus focus only on what I can control myself. I eat half of the gel I brought with me. Luckily, I have enough Naak Gels and Sponsergels as well as bars in my backpack. So, all good! I carry on running.
We attack the 2nd loop going up to Kullamannen. It’s again this difficult coastal path with big stones and a slippery path. I carefully run this passage followed by the uphills in the forest. There are many positive aspects to doing loops. An advantage is of course that you know the terrain as you have already been there; thus it’s easier for orientation. Another Plus is that you know about the easy sections and challenging sections aiming to prepare yourself for those and run as best as possible.
Although 624 runners took the start, it’s often the case that there are big gaps between the best runners, the average runners, and the slower athletes. Now, I’m running alone and focusing on the downhill part. Luckily the trail is well marked, so we won’t lose track! All of a sudden, I fall. I lost the focus on the trail, and this is the result. I have tears in my eyes and stop running for a minute or two. It’s hurting. “Is this it…” I ask myself. Immediately my mind replies “Of course not! Just stop for a minute, breathe in, breathe out… Just calm down for a second.” This helped and I carry on running slowly. The pain starts decreasing and decreasing. Good! After a few minutes, I was able to run normally. What a relief! The next aid station is approaching soon. Warm Food is awaiting. It’s just 4 km to go! Can’t be worse, right?!
Mölle Aid Station at Km 53,6 - Take 3
Happy to have arrived in Mölle. There’s a big tent with tables and chairs for us runners and friendly volunteers serving hot food and drinks. Oh yes, finally! I consume a quick soup with rice and hot potato while standing, refill the bottles with water and coke, and then carry on running. The screen in the tent shows the number of runners who already passed this section. I’m in position 24. That means I have lost 12 places between the first aid station until now. The leader is 43 minutes ahead. Well, whatever, that’s ok. I was hoping to reach this point at 23.40. Now, it’s 23.51. I’m happy about this and with how the race has been going so far. This gives confidence and motivation to perform well on the remaining +100 Km.
It’s a relief to know that the most technical trail section is now behind us. What follows a flat trail terrain with some less technical up and downhills, at least in theory. I like that.
The hell - from Km 53 to Km 87
“Hey, how is it going?” On the trail, I crossed a nice young Swedish guy named Alfons. We talk a little bit while running. We learn from each other that we both do 24-hour flat races as well. That’s cool stuff, and not that common among ultra trail runners. We stick together for maybe 10-15 minutes. Then, when the terrain gets flatter, I start running a bit faster and he follows me. It’s the beginning of the flat section I look forward to. My pace decreased to 5.30-5.45/km for the next few km. It’s great, I love it.
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As we leave the forest area and continue to the seaside, the trail is getting muddier and more wet again. Some sections were full of water and mud. That was difficult and exhausting. However, it is what it is. I focus on the things I can control and accept the things I cannot. Thus, I decided to walk through river trail sections and then immediately run again when those were over. So far so good! Now, only 2 km lie ahead of us runners until Ängelholm, the big aid station. I focus on this big intermediate goal.
Suddenly, the craziest muddy trail sections full of water appeared. It was hard. Initially, you try to find a way around it but here… no way. It was a river trail of several hundred meters filled with mud and water. The water was knee-deep.
My feet get very wet and very cold! Thanks to the good shoes, Salomon S/Lab Ultra 3 the shoes dry quickly but it only takes a few seconds until they’re wet again.
At this precise moment, I am not feeling well. I’m thinking about a potential DNF. “Is this really it… Did you come to Sweden for a DNF? Hell no…. Just carry on, you trained for it, focus, the only goal for now is the next aid station, which is in sight…It’s just 1 more km to go. Warm food is waiting. You can do it.. put your ass into it.” OK, we carry on! In this kind of difficult moment, some mental techniques are of great help. You can apply the one I just described, which is called positive Self-talk or also a context transfer strategy reminding yourself about other challenging moments that you already went through and did not defeat and made you stronger.
From Ängelholm Aid Station at Km 87 to Km 100
It’s super cold. My feet are wet and full of mud. "Shall I change socks and shoes – yes or no?"
I hesitate and ask an official regarding the upcoming trail sections. It seems like those river trail sections won’t end. 10 more km to go in those conditions… Thus, I decided to carry on wearing the same shoes and some socks. I drink 2 bowls of bouillons, eat some bananas, drink coke, refill the bottles with water and Coke, and sit down for some minutes.
I did not want to do a longer break but the muddy/watery sections broke me a bit and thus I wanted to do a 15-minute break. OK, let’s go.. now! Due to the longer break, my body got colder. I’m freezing. I see other people freezing… How to solve this? Think positive, be focused, and run, just run… don’t walk! The more active the body is, the higher the heart rate, and the higher the core temperature. You know… nothing is eternal in life. Pain will pass by. So will my low temperature.
I’m again alone in the forest, it’s cold and wet. But hey, it’s already 4 am. That means daylight is approaching soon. This is what motivates me and I focus just on my steps; left, right, left, right… 15 minutes later, body temperature is up to speed, all good. Let’s carry on. Way more than 50% of the race is already done, and the most difficult parts lie behind us. So, lots of positive aspects to be proud of! There are just 10 km remaining in the forest trail before we head back to the coastal line.
Those last 10 km were quite challenging due to the wet and muddy trail. Thus I’m running whenever possible and walk through the muddy sections full of water. Due to that, I’m not able to run as fast as wished. On the bright side though, the night will be over soon and the trails should become better very soon. Thus, many things to look forward to.
From Hell to (almost) heaven and the sea
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It’s 5.24 a.m. I refill the bottles with water and then carry on running on the coastal trail. I like running on this path. Many athletes are running behind as well as ahead of me. Almost everyone from them are from the 100km race; they had a similar route. It feels good to have company. My goal is to run sub 6min/km on the flat part. I partially succeeded in this. The coastal trail path is much harder than expected as the trail is flat but filled with plenty of stones and sand.
Thus, it takes much more energy. I started listening to some techno music in the hope of being able to accelerate. It doesn’t work. 30 minutes later, I turn off the music. It’s better. The senses are more activated allowing full concentration on the trail and, full focus. I alternate running with walking on the difficult sections.
In the meatime, it’s 06:31. Yey, daylight is in sight! That's a big relief. The whole night is passed. Running in the day is easier. The trail path is still the same though. It’s a nice trail with a great sea view and ocean breeze. I’m tired but motivated. It’s runnable. Thus, I alternate running (80-90%) with walking. It’s going OK
Daily, Sea, and solid F&B
It's 7.30 in the morning. Welcome, Saturday morning! Thank you for the daylight! Happy to have succeeded in running through the whole night despite multiple challenges. Now, it's time for a quick stop here in Glimmingen at Km124 and a quick chat with some friendly volunteers. I refill the bottles with water and leave the aid station.
The trail becomes more variable with some uphills and downhills including big bush areas and stones. I slightly slow down the pace.
Hmm, what might be the intermediate ranking? How well do the other runners? At KM 130, I allow myself to have a look at the live rankings. As the finish line is not so far away, I'm curious to know if it’s worth pushing harder if energy levels allow. Nice surprise.. I’m in position 10. Although I’m running slower than planned, it’s an excellent intermediate result. I want to be in the Top 10. This gives room for additional motivation and the desire to carry on pushing and focus on a good running economy.
Heaven is in sight, final effort kicks in
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Hovs Hallar at Km 138.4 is the last aid station before the finish line. It’s an excellent aid station including solid food such as sandwiches, cheese, meat, fruits, and a good choice of drink options. I refill the bottles with water and coke, eat a banana, some cheese, and salty stuff. It’s important to give the body some more carbs and protein for the final part. 3-4 minutes later, I leave the aid station. At this time, the guy who is in position 11 just arrived at the station.
I start running a bit faster and hope he will not catch me. There’s 20 km to go including nice flat sections and two uphill’s. It looks promising.
The part of the coastal trail seems to be done now. What lies ahead of us is a big section of the road and a runnable trail. On the road, I meet and speak to a very friendly Swedish guy participating in the 100km run. It’s good to have some chats. We run together for around 5km. Then, the uphill is in front of us. I like it as it’s not technical at all and I’m able to do some power hiking alternating with slow running. Once on top, there’s a nice downhill where I can run again with a nice 10k pace. What follows are another few small up and downhills. Last uphill done, yay! Now, it’s only 10 km remaining. It’s a nice forest trail, just next to the sea. It’s beautiful and I’m confident to be able to finish well and hopefully strong.
Bastad Baby... final loop & finish
An important number of houses and many people are in sight. This looks like a city. Yesss – it’s Bastad. This is where the finish is. I can hear the speaker from the organising committee, music, and some people cheering. But… there’s an additional loop of 5 km to do. Many runners ahead of me from the 100 km race look exhausted, many of them walk. We all have come so far, we all will be proud finishers. It's a great feeling and time for a final effort. With this in mind, I carry on running by focusing on the here and now. The finish line is coming closer. Second by second.
I see the last km ahead of me. The music and voice of the race organisers can be heard louder and louder. What a great feeling. Now, it’s time to enjoy the last few meters of the race. I cross the finish line with a smile. I’m proud of this big achievement and are rewarded with a super nice finisher gift: A special ring in Silver.
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Conclusion
It was 100 miles. 100 f… miles. This race was huge. It feels like life in one day including multiple ups and downs. I’m happy to have overcome those difficult moments.
I'm grateful for this challenging experience resulting in a great achievement. I learned so much. Thank you Kullamannen by UTMB, you were a great teacher!
A big thank you to:
Kalsang, my girlfriend for granting me so much time to practice my passion and for your virtual support
My friends and family who followed me virtually and for the encouraging messages.
Ben Dhiman, one of the best ultra runners in the world and a great coach. Thank you for coaching me and sharing great advice
Sponser Sport Food for fuelling me with great Gels and Salt Tabs
Salomon for providing me with great gear
Wow, so impressive! And great written. Thank you so much for taking us on this journey. And of course big congrat on this incredible achievement!
Nyima
Congratulations Dominik! A fantastic result and a riveting report, thanks for the memories. I'll be bookmarking this!
Nick Hales (P79)